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From George.....Woodjig.com



Free plans for making wooden storm windows.

Making Wooden 
Storm Windows....

For some it may be their best woodworking project for saving energy. 

Wooden windows are said to be even more energy efficient than aluminum storm windows.  Here are the free plans and suggestions for  making your own. 

If you want to save on materials, try to find, or have specially cut 5/4 poplar, or use 
Douglass Fir.  Douglass Fir is also hard to find in some areas, but it is sort of like 
Redwood, it doesn't warp easily. 

Skill level high...5/5...
Reading closely, and then proceeding.... medium, 3/5.

 

 

Home owners with older homes, or older farmhouse type homes especially, 
can often save money and make really nice windows. These types of wooden 
windows are said to be more energy efficient than even the aluminum storm 
windows.  I made about seven new storm windows recently and here are some 
tips. I used a lap joint as seen in the picture. This joint provides a rabbit for the 
glass to fit into the frame when it is assembled. 

                                                       
See above how the end rabbit laps
over top of the other for greater gluing surface.
I would suggest using outdoor glue, or a 
good polyurethane glue.

 

I used redwood, which, because of  tree farms which raise it, it is very abundant, but the market is not abundant in "Clear redwood"   In some areas, most of the available stuff has sapwood running throughout. Therefore, Redwood that contains sapwood needs to be primed and an added  finish coat of good oil or latex paint.  

I would not suggest using wood molding to frame around the glass unless you seal underneath with a few coats of primer or good paint finish.  In picture #6 below, I used all wooded strip molding, but would advice against it unless it is sealed under the strips.  Water can be absorbed around the thin molding strips, and if the wood is not sealed, it can rot some underneath. I would suggest that you plan on using glazing to set the glass. It is much less work than cutting so many pieces of molding. I used redwood, which is very abundant, but the market is not abundant in "Clear redwood", as most of the available stuff has sapwood running throughout. 

Again, use Douglass fir, or poplar, and when using redwood, watch for sapwood or prepare to paint projects that use sapwood. Sapwood is a lighter streak, like the color of poplar.  It  is not as rot proof as high quality redwood.  I will use this wood again, but it shouldn't be sold as true redwood....at least not as the best grade. It is also quite expensive for 5/4 redwood, and if its not available, the best choice may be poplar.  

Use a dado blade to cut the long rabbits of the frame.  

 
If you can find it in 5/4 it would be good, but that might be very hard. When measuring the parts, be very careful to make accurate measurements before you pick up the wood to avoid too much waste. Order the longest boards possible otherwise. Best advice for beginners......I would even advise making a test piece out of pine wood before cutting into a more expensive variety. 

5 joints.jpg (15376 bytes)  
Here are all five pieces for
the 2 panel windows seen 
finished below...

 

___

Ready to Begin 
making Wooden Storm Windows?

Step 1...Take the measurements for all of the parts, for the size window you need, 
or copy from and old window.  Always leave room for error on the lengths.  

Step 2  Cut all of your pieces and then drill the mounting holes into the sides. 

Step 3   You should see it, but make sure you mount the top and bottom supports 
of the frame inside the frame.  In other words, The top or the bottom support will never 
be the full length of the frame, but will lock into the frame on both ends.  Some people 
will make the top and bottom rails the full width, and side rails shorter....It won't be as 
sturdy.  

Step 4  Screw the rails together from the holes in the sides. After you assemble the frame, 
you can have a hardware store: or Loews, or Home Depot will cut your glass. 

Step 5  Tape the glass to the frame with masking tape for the trip home. 
You can use inexpensive pine molding inside the window frames, or use glazing.
Use a good brand of glazing, but remember to paint under the glazing some 
to seal the wood from moisture. 
Otherwise, after the glazing gets old, it will 
allow more and more moisture to permeate the framing. 

That's it!

* Just remember, the three supports (top, bottom, and middle) have 
a rabbit in the front going the length of the piece, but also have 
a rabbit on the back on the two ends.   So, leave some on the lengths 
until you grasp how this joint functions.  See below....

5 joints.jpg (15376 bytes)

Cut the outside (side) rails to length to fit your window 
frame.  Click on the picture above to see how the 
dado is cut.

3 widows rails 2.jpg (13695 bytes)
Above is the middle support rail. 
and the top and bottom rails.
  Allow an extra 1" 
or so when cutting your lengths
to 
allow for the end rabbit cuts.  Click above.

  mid rail.jpg (9628 bytes)  
Middle rail.   
                                

4 square pieces.jpg (12212 bytes)  
Layout the frame before proceeding.

   
Picture #6
           

  wpe1.jpg (15552 bytes)  
Picture #7 Three windows before 
sealer and paint. 

 

 

 


From George.....Woodjig.com

"Most people don't realize that a common table saws can be transformed into an accurate and
consistent duplication machine.  It can be very productive, and  the centerpiece of every shop."

More hobbyists need the experience to make things in volume. Think of 
all the things that can be mass produced if there was more insight. Now there is. 
Many shops are adorned with tools but need a little more. Some need the 
connections to follow through with producing a constant need for 
products, new ideas and neat inventions.  

 

 

Got Method?


Unless all were thinking that tools were only for a pastime. 
Make volume.. a Mascut 
Or, a starter jig.. Minnie Cut


 

 

 

 

 

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make storm windows.